Sunday, November 27, 2011

Thank You for The Opportunity of Being of Service

It doesn't shame me to tell you that my father was a New York City taxi driver. For a number of years. Some people laugh when I tell them my father was a taxi driver. These people I know immediately to be people who know nothing. Their laugh titters off awkwardly so when I look at them so.

Because if you know anything about the price of New York City taxi medallion and if I tell you my father bought one and held onto it and then sold it to put me through a very excellent university with no financial aid whatsoever, you know that my father is a very smart man. (Given what I know about NYC medallion prices today, I can only wish that he had held onto his a decade longer. We could have paid off any loans and bought a nice vacation home in The Bahamas too.)

But my economic point is not my point. It's more what I learned, indirectly, from my father during his time in the front of the car.

Firstly, women are cheap. My father could take a woman 30 blocks, and she'd tip him 10 cents. I try to avoid taking taxis with large groups of women because when we get to our final destination, someone will hand me a dollar to pay the meter that says $10. "That's all I have," they'll say. "I mean, I have a $20 but..." I pay the entire meter and turn down the buck. And I give every driver 20% for their daughter at home, waiting to go to college.

Secondly, never pass up the opportunity to go to the bathroom. My father had a Mott's Apple Juice jar. It rolled beneath the seat of his yellow Chevy Impala, stained white it places from frequent use and frequent temperature changes. "Didn't you just go?" people will say to me, upon leaving parties. "Why yes, I did," I respond. "But you should never pass up the opportunity to go to the bathroom." There is you. And there is the front door. Everything in between is not controllable. This one time, I was in McDonald's eating chicken McNuggets and before I knew it, I was on an inescapable bus somewhere on the outskirts of Heidelberg and I had to pee like a racehorse. So seriously, just go.

Thirdly, taxi drivers know the best places to eat, within certain parameters. They appreciate a good value. They appreciate a certain speediness of service. And free parking. (And a clean bathroom.) One summer when I had to have been around 12, my father picked me and my cousin up in Flatbush and on our way back to Long Island, we stopped at a Greek place somewhere up in Queens and he loaded us up with gyros. We had never had gyros before, and thought my father was a bit crazy, to take us to this restaurant with rotating meat in the window. I remember the white sauce dripping everywhere, and the foil wrapping, and feeling somehow all so worldly, eating Greek food in the back of a city cab, my father at the helm, all the way out to Long Island.

And then there is the traffic. Always the traffic. Distraction was key to traffic. Get a CB-radio. Get an airplane radio. Get a police scanner. The best of the taxi drivers have all three. Because they appreciate, above all, information.

But then there's the lying. Because everyone lies. "My wallet is inside" and "I'll be right back" and "I KNOW I gave you a $20."

And then it's midnight on a Tuesday or a Wednesday and you are 12 years old and wrapped tight in bed in your flannel pajamas when the phone rings--late, like it's never supposed to--and there are conversations and more conversations and more phone calls and more phone calls and in the morning, over your oatmeal, you learn that Mony, one of your father's nightime drivers who always called your dad Mr. Pat and introduced the family to pita bread, has been shot. In the head.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Life in America

At some point, I really will stop talking about London. It will fade as all things do and I will find myself telling stories and not remembering where the story took place, but remembering the people and what was said and how it was said and wasn't it just SO funny and WHERE WAS THAT when that happened?

But for now the memories are clear. They are maybe dull around the edges in that Hipstamatic way where the new looks old and the old looks new, but they are still there in their output. Maybe it's the sounds more than anything that make the memories clearer. In the morning as I leave my apartment, I still wait for that scratch scratch of my borough streetsweeper, cleaning up Shoreditch's last party. During my commute, I wait for the sounds of an approaching train--always the Jubilee line for some reason--and then the tube doors sweeping, whooshing shut, beep beep beep beep beep beep beep. And at night, while I lie in bed and marvel at Chicago's silence, I still wait for those police sirens to go on and on and on to somewhere that will turn out to be not in the paper the next day.

At times, I will find myself standing in front of the turnstile on the other end of an El journey, ticket in hand, ready to touch out, unsure of what to do next. Other times, in the dark of night and in my centrally-heated condominium--with an elevator no less--I will clumsily slap the wall outside my bathroom, trying to find the light  switch.

Some mornings, hairdryer in hand, I marvel at my hair in the bathroom mirror; it's been a long time since I've been able to blow dry so well. And other times, I open up my freezer just to admire its contents. Ice. I like to turn the ice maker on. And off. As much ice as I want, anytime I want it. And frozen broccoli, frozen chicken, frozen turkey burgers, frozen string beans, and my personal favorite, frozen peas. In America, I survive on frozen everything. And hot sauce. Repatriation has been marked by a tremendous uptick in hot sauce consumption.

I buy milk and orange juice by the gallon. The GALLON! I ride the train and then the bus with a coffee in  my hand. I spend weekends wandering the city in gym clothes. (Sometimes I go to the gym, sometimes I don't.)

I have a DVR now. It's fully loaded.  DVRs are important in America because of the number of commercials. In between the reality shows, there are commercials on ALL THE TIME. And everyone is always SHOUTING about an 800 number or talking to me about depression or high blood pressure. I never knew I had depression and high blood pressure until I repatriated and turned the television on without the benefit of a DVR. But now I have a DVR so I don't think about these things too much. But I do wonder about who to vote for and if the candidate has indeed approved this message.

Sometimes my friends in America owe me money. "I'll write you a check," they tell me. I haven't seen a check since 2004. Checks are hard work. First, you need to sign the check. Then, you need to hope you don't lose it. And then you need to walk to the bank and deposit it. And then you need to wait like five days until the money is yours. And in between, your friends write you emails like "Can you make sure you deposit the check today because I might not have any money after that" or other emails like "Can you not deposit the check until next week because I probably won't have money until then." And all you want is your money and WHY DOES THIS HAVE TO BE SO HARD?

So then I'll turn the radio on. And Pearl Jam will be playing. Or Tom Petty. If it's Tom Petty, it's probably  that song Free Falling. Free Falling is ALWAYS on American radio. You'll get the occasional Green Day, and in the summer in particular, you get that song by that guy who I see on Entertainment Tonight now. You know...the hot guy. With the cheekbones.

At parties now, I'm the one that arrives alone but always with the champagne. Nice champagne. Thoughtfully selected, but with an eye towards a good value because, you know, France is expensive these days. "Oh that's so nice of you" they gush. And "Wow! Champagne! Oooh!" And then "Champagne...what a surprise! We'll have to save this for a special occasion." They hand me a Miller Light or a glass of Yellow Tail Chardonnay and I sigh and I wonder "Isn't that special occasion right now?"

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Sheikhs on The Plane

I flew from Doha to Munich the other week. And then onwards to Chicago. The Doha flight left at 2 am which kinda sucked, but lucky for me, while I was trying to talk my way into the Qatar Airways lounge with my United Mileage Plus card, some nice English gentleman let me in as his guest. So I helped myself to the baklava and red wine--drinking alone is totally acceptable in airline lounges--and I was nicely calm by the time my flight was called.

The flight was EMPTY. Empty. I hadn't seen a flight this empty since I flew from Chicago to Sweden two months after 9/11. I stretched out in a row by myself, admiring how empty the flight was and how much space I had. I put one of my bags on each of the four empty seats around me. (I am the master of carrying-on 16 bags in one bag and a small personal item.) I still had no leg room and the arm rests were oddly immovable, but I was still very happy.

Very, very happy.

Until, that is, the VIPs arrived.

Or, well, I should say...the servants of the VIPs arrived.

Right before we were scheduled to depart to Munich, a busload of people arrived and filled the first three rows of coach. A 2-5-2 seating arrangement and three rows of seats. There were three Filipino nannies, taking care of the youngest three children. Then three male servants of some sort, each with a ridiculous amount of carry-on luggage; a United Airlines flight attendant would never ever tolerate this. And then there were two elderly servants--a man and a woman--who I could only guess were long-term family employees. If you're with me on the math, that's 11 so far. The rest where children. Demon, demon children. At least five of them. Between the looting and the shouting and the running (running...ON A PLANE!), I lost count. Lost count!

After a surprisingly tasty dinner right after takeoff (the harder it is to find the country on a map, the better the food of the national airline), the flight attendants brought around a very civilized cart of tea and coffee and biscuits. I had taken two Tylenol PM by this point and was kinda out of it, but I was awake enough to see one of the daughters--not yet in hijab--approach the tea cart, open one of the drawers, and dump ALL of the the cookies into her outstretched t-shirt. She was a larger young girl. It was easy to understand why.

What then pursued was a biscuit-tossing session. From one side of the plane to the other. Which made one of the babies scream. Which made the other two babies scream. Which made the flight attendants scream. All while biscuits were being tossed in the air and LIFE JACKETS WERE BEING DEPLOYED. The scene upon disembarkation was what I can only imagine Lord of The Flies was like. Had I actually read it.

What did the parents say? (Is there a plural of parents? Because really...there was one father and many wives. How does one describe that in one word?) They said, from up in first class, the wives in their burqas, Louis Vuitton bags at the ready, "Kids will be kids."

I motioned to a flight attendant. "I fly I lot," I said, "And I've never seen children like these. Ever. They are like demons. Small demons, but large ones."

"I know," he said. "But what can I do? They are VIPs."

Sunday, November 6, 2011

This Place Reminds Me an Awful Lot of Fort Lauderdale

I've been going to the Middle East a lot lately. For work. And you know what? It all reminds me a lot of Fort Lauderdale, Florida. I grew up in Fort Lauderdale in my late teens. So I should know. There's a beach there. Everywhere, really. And a big beach road. And lots of old leathery men with big watches, spritzed with cologne, preying on younger women with blow-dryed hair and fresh pedicures.

Hammamet, Tunisia? City on the beach. Lots of hotels. Lots of white wine. Lots of old tan dudes trying to get it on with younger ladies. That's totally Fort Lauderdale. (And lots of older ladies trying to get it on with younger guys. Don't get me started.) The only difference was the guy in the souk who told us he'd never had sex before and would one of us have it with him later? Because we were Western women and surely we would have sex with him without marriage.

Dubia, UAE? Fort Lauderdale. And they've even got the traffic. You try hitting A1A in the Sunshine State at rush hour or at 8 pm on a Friday night. That's Jumeirah Beach Road in Dubai Marina. Like big time. And both cities even have that crazy thing where only certain streets go in certain directions so if you don't have a cab driver who's driven in Fort Lauderdale (or Dubai) for ages, you are screwed, my friend. SCREWED. I believe the Bentley population is also roughly equal...if we measure Dubai against For Lauderdale in like 1988.

Doha, Qatar. Totally Fort Lauderdale. City on the beach? Check! Impossible to get a taxi from anywhere to anywhere except to/from the airport? Check, check. Tan dudes with big watches and lots of money driving fancy cars around town for no other reason than to drive fancy cars around town? Check, check, check. (Qatar is the richest country in the world, after all.)

Kuwait City, Kuwait. The only big difference here is the lack of alcohol. And the urban planning. Somewhere, someone was smart enough to say, "Hey, we are a city on the Gulf. Maybe we should keep things beautiful. Maybe we should put the city inland. Maybe we should keep the waterfront free." And they did. And it's beautiful. You think, as an American, that Kuwait is in the desert. But there's a reason why they called it the Gulf War and you realize that suddenly as your taxi takes you outside downtown. And then you turn down Arabian Gulf Street and see the whole world laid out there in front of you, all blue and green and crystal. And you think, "I'm thirsty, let's have a drink." And you stop at TGI Friday's and have a Mudslide.